Surviving a Japanese Onsen

A trip to Japan is incomplete without a trip to an onsen. Onsens, the hot springs that serve as public baths in Japan, can be confusing for a first timer. However, this addictive tradition is well worth the effort. Here is a quick guide to getting in and out of your first onsen without shaming anyone’s ancestors.

Packing Your Kit 

An onsen kit will make your first onsen go smoothly. It should include:

1. A large towel to dry off with. 
2. A small towel – basically a “modesty” towel to cover your bits. 
3. Shampoo, conditioner, and soap. 
4. Any other necessaries like a razor and a toothbrush. 

Onsens generally sell all these items, but you’ll find it cheaper to pick them up at a convenience store before going. Soap and shampoo are free at higher-priced onsens.

Paying and Undressing 

Many onsens have vending machine style ticket dispensers, but you need to read some Kanji in order to use them. The symbol for adult is 大人 literally meaning, “big person.” If there’s no machine or you can’t understand it, simply go to the front counter and pay at the till. An onsen will normally cost between 400~700 yen. Most onsens are split into men’s (男) and women’s (女). The proper change room should be obvious by color; men’s is usually marked by a blue or green hanging and women’s by a red or pink one. Check with the counter if you have any doubts – better to be safe.

The change room will have cubbyholes with baskets for your clothes and coin lockers for your valuables. The coin lockers return your coins, so use them if they’re there. If there are no lockers, leave your valuables at the front.

Before Getting In 

At this point you’ll be carrying your kit and nervously adjusting your modesty towel, but it’s not time to jump it yet. Inside the onsen, there will be washing areas and a pile of small plastic bowls and stools. Grab a bowl and and find yourself an open spot. Traditionally, you would fill the bowl with water and pour it over yourself to wash, but modern onsens have showers as well as taps. Clean yourself thoroughly before getting into the onsen.

If you are going to shave, do it after going into the onsen at least once just in case you cut yourself. Nobody wants to share a bath with someone who is bleeding. Also, you can carry your modesty towel with you, but wring out any soap or shampoo first.

Leaving 

After slowly boiling yourself clean, you reverse the process: rinse your washing area, put the stool and bowl back, and get dressed. Remember to dry off with the modesty towel before stepping into the change room so you don’t drip all over the floor. Once you’re out, thank the lady at the desk and congratulate yourself on surviving your first onsen (and probably not your last). An onsen is an excellent experience that you can have anywhere in Japan. That said, Aoni Onsen in Aomori still has my vote.